Mucho gusto.

Let us show you the country we actually live in.

Not the fifteen places everyone photographs. We have assessed 417 places to stay across 34 regions, read 280,692 reviews, and written up the ones worth your money — along with the ones that aren't, and why.

Ticos say mucho gusto when they meet you, and again instead of “you're welcome.” You'll hear it forty times a day.

417places assessed
34regions, coast to summit
68written up in full
280,692reviews read
3gaps we still admit to

We know who'll be at the desk when you arrive

Costa Rican hospitality isn't a brand standard — it's specific people, most of whom have been at the same property for years. These names come up again and again in the reviews, so we put them in the guide.

Marisol
Surf Inn Hermosa · Playa Hermosa

Named in nearly every review for over a decade. Cooks what guests independently call the best Costa Rican breakfast between here and Jacó.

Mildred
Hotel Playa Bejuco · Esterillos

Books the birthday massage at short notice and arranges the fishing. One guest brought his own mackerel back; the kitchen cooked it and stored the rest.

Jan & Avtar
Eden Atenas

She's a tropical horticulturist, he gives the plant-life tour. They turned the family house into a guesthouse in 2012 and are on the porch most evenings.

Minor Céspedes
Finca Los Caballos · Montezuma

The stable hand. The owner refurbished the whole lodge himself, then said plainly that Minor is the one who actually knows the horses.

Moraya & Syska
Ylang Ylang · Montezuma

Their parents arrived when the town had no electricity and made a living drying fruit in the sun. The daughters run both properties now.

Vera
Vista Atenas

Belgian, hands-on, and the reason repeat guests give for coming back to a hilltop B&B that needs a little updating and gets forgiven for it.

Six words that change your day

Not phrasebook Spanish. These are the ones that decide where you eat, what you can claim on, and who treats you.

soda
A small family restaurant serving a casado — rice, beans, plantain, salad, a protein. Where you should be having lunch.
feria
The weekly farmers' market. Atenas runs Friday from 5:30am, and it's the town's real social event.
denuncia
The formal report you file with the OIJ after a theft. Your insurer will ask for it. 911 is only for something happening now.
la Caja
The CCSS — the public health system. Its hospitals will treat you in an emergency, at low cost or none.
chorreador
The cloth sock coffee is poured through. It lets the oils past. Ask for it made this way.
carreta
The painted ox cart of Sarchí. Recognised national heritage, and still the best craft buy in the country.

Things everyone repeats that turned out not to be true

The useful part of a guide is rarely the recommendation.

The country's most famous climate claim was invented by a marketing committee

Atenas has credited National Geographic with naming it “the best climate in the world” for decades — it's painted on the buses. A local estate agent wanted the article framed for his office wall, couldn't find it anywhere, and wrote to the magazine's archive. They replied that they had never made the assertion and had never published an article about Atenas. The likely origin is a 1990s government and CANATUR tourism campaign that handed every town a slogan — the same one that made Heredia the city of flowers and Puntarenas the pearl of the Pacific. The climate really is lovely. The citation is fiction.

You cannot swim in the blue water at Río Celeste

Swimming is prohibited throughout Tenorio Volcano National Park. Nearly every photograph of somebody floating in glowing turquoise water was taken on a public stretch of river outside the park boundary, which is where the guided tours stop. And the colour isn't dye, algae or dissolved minerals — two clear streams meet, form fine suspended particles, and those particles scatter the light. Scoop it into a glass and it runs clear.

Three of the five domestic airlines you'll be offered aren't flying

Nature Air closed in January 2018. Aerobell, SkyWay and TAC suspended scheduled service around 2020 and never resumed published schedules. Booking aggregators and older articles still list all of them as though you can buy a seat. Two carriers actually run scheduled domestic flights: SANSA and Costa Rica Green Airways.

Your credit card will not cover the rental car

Third-party liability insurance is mandatory under Costa Rican law and is almost never included in the price the aggregators quote. Credit card cover is a collision waiver and does not satisfy the requirement. This is why people book a twelve-dollar-a-day car and find several hundred dollars added at the counter, with a queue of equally surprised travellers ahead of them.

The biggest hotel in town usually isn't the best one

It held in region after region. Best Western Jacó Beach, the town's largest all-inclusive, sits at 3.8 across 1,956 reviews. Terraza del Pacífico in Playa Hermosa manages 3.3 — one reviewer summed it up as a poor hotel with good staff. Meanwhile eleven-room places that spend nothing on advertising hold 4.8.

Thirty-four regions

Ordered the way you'd drive them — Pacific north to south, over to the Caribbean, then up into the mountains. The number is how many places we assessed there.

Guides

Written for the decisions people actually get wrong.